The Romance of the Vines, Adventures on the Road

Five Favorite Vendors at the Saint-Rémy Market

THE big market day in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is Wednesday. In the wee hours, massive umbrellas begin spouting everywhere—across, around, and beyond the historic center. The goods on offer run the gamut from edibles to wearables, and much in between, such as olive wood platters, original watercolors, and genuine Laguiole cutlery. (You can also get duplicate keys at a mobile truck.)

In general, the main square, Place de la République, hosts stalls selling clothes, shoes, and textiles; food stalls appear in front of the church, L’Église Saint-Martin, and continue along Rue Lafayette, which leads to Place Pellissier, dominated by the Hôtel de Ville and the beautiful Fountaine de Quatre Dophins;  intimate Place Favier, home to the marvelous Musée des Alpilles, primarily showcases artisans, whose stands stretch along rue Carnot to the ring road.

Culinary Delights and Dreams under the Linden Tree in Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Imagine: you’re sitting on a terrace, beneath the centuries-old linden tree (Le Tilleul), with a breathtaking view of the valley and the timeless splendor of Saint-Paul-de-Vence all around you. The leaves rustle in a warm summer breeze. The only sound comes from the clinking of glasses on the terrace and happy conversations. The terrace is surrounded by the diverse aromas of the delicious dishes Le Tilleul offers.

This isn’t just any place in the village: this is Le Tilleul, a restaurant on the side street of Rue Grande that immediately invites you in with its joie de vivre atmosphere, and where you feel as if time has stood still. Enjoy a delicious drink overlooking the narrow, charming streets brimming with creativity, people strolling about, waiters moving silently between the white linen-covered tables, and the valley with its expansive view. As if you were sitting in one of the paintings from one of the galleries in the street ahead.

Figs, figs, figs! Highlights from the Sollies-Pont Festival

It happens every year over the last weekend in August, the glorious Fig Festival in Sollies-Pont – the fig capital of France. Home to classified AOP figs – the Rolls Royce of the purple beauties, the town goes all out when it comes to celebrating its star product.

Marching bands, parades, fig-eating contest, hidden fig treasure hunt, cooking demonstations, you name it!

We came for all the action, and, above all, to taste the lovely figs in pretty-much every con”fig”eration (ugh!) possible – fig cookies, tarts, pastries, babas au rhum, ice cream… and arguably my favorite, fig kir royale. For the great price of €8, we got champagne with fig liqueur with the flute to take home for free.

I could have stayed all day… Mini fig trees are also for sale, and you can grab lunch from several different food trucks – including spit-fire barbeque and my favorite, fireroasted “cade” – a chickpea flour flatbread known as socca in Nice.

Whatever your fruit-fancy, if you’re in Provence at the end of August, go get your fig on at Sollies-Pont’s lovely festival.

Luberon, Alpilles, Provence Road Trip

Our beautiful Provence. (photo by Daan Wijngaard)

Provence is one of the most beautiful regions of France, stretching from the lower Rhône River in the west to the Italian border in the east, all bound by the azure Mediterranean Sea to the south, known as the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region.   

Palais des Papes (photo by Ryan Klaus)


This solo trip is dedicated to a look back at the hilltop villages I visited many years ago and making discoveries in the Luberon, a department of the Vaucluse. Some villages are classified as Plus Beaux Villages de France, and others are notable for historical efforts, artists, and markets. Many of the villages are close together and never far from my home base in Avignon.  Provence is famous around the world for its postcard-worthy villages and breathtaking vistas. Where each village has its unique personality and a special allure – it’s love at first sight.  

Today, my driver is Veronica, owner of Provans Tours. She is very knowledgeable about the area and speaks Italian, French, English, German, and Russian. She is skilled for all her international clients.

Wine-painting: When a Spill Becomes Art

Have you ever laughed with friends while holding a glass of red wine? That can be the sign of a fun evening… or the beginning of an artistic adventure!

Try laughing a bit harder, and there you go—a spill lands gently on your ivory dress… it’s ruined—that’s your first thought. Then your artistic brain says, “What a beautiful pigment… and I’m sure it won’t come off unless you carefully try to wash it out.”

And just like that, Vin sur Toile (Wine on Canvas) was born.

My artistic journey

I’m Brazilian and I have a Fine Arts degree from back home. I’ve painted mostly with acrylics and watercolors, dry and oil pastels, and have experimented with many other mediums: Chinese ink, crayons, engraving, cyanotype… and even bleach, among others. Experimenting new mediums has always been a part of my artistic routine.

Harvest Views at La Font des Pères

If it wasn’t just the most beautiful Thursday (2 weeks ago) in the south of France. I’d headed out to do some shopping at our local farmers market… but couldn’t seem to find a parking spot. On such a gorgeous day, instead of taking another loop around, I thought to myself… What about that place in Le Beausset, why not take a quick drive out that way?

La Font de Péres winery + boutique hotel + spa + restaurant opened a few years back and we’ve yet to visit, even though it’s a short 15-minutes from home. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but it certainly wasn’t this!

The whole place is more of a “compond” than a simple winery. On the bottom, you’ve got your grape vines (where I stumbled upon a group of workers picking the morning away), winding up the road is the hotel and spa, and still further (it’s an incline folks!) is the winery and restaurant.

It’s cliché for sure, but the views are spectacular. I got myself a glass of rosé (it was almost 12pm, let’s say) and sat out on the bistro terrace. Views are of the Provençal landscape below with the vineyards, mountains, and blue sky making for a picture-perfect contrast.

I’m looking forward to saving some euros to dine in the domaine’s restaurant. And why not a quick stop at the spa? Off the beaten track, it’s a calming retreat in the center of the Provençal countryside.

La Font des Péres

306 Chemin de Pontillaou – 83330 Le Beausset

04 94 15 21 21 – contact@lafontdesperes.com

Our Painting with Wine workshop on October 11th!

Belle Provence Travels

www.belleprovencetravels.com

Provence, Var, South of France

2 responses to “The Romance of the Vines, Adventures on the Road”

  1. Another amazing article – wish I was there for “fig season” – my favorite fruit. I will have to settle for Trader Joe’s for my supply this year. Thanks you, Tuula!

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