THE big market day in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is Wednesday. In the wee hours, massive umbrellas begin spouting everywhere—across, around, and beyond the historic center. The goods on offer run the gamut from edibles to wearables, and much in between, such as olive wood platters, original watercolors, and genuine Laguiole cutlery. (You can also get duplicate keys at a mobile truck.)
In general, the main square, Place de la République, hosts stalls selling clothes, shoes, and textiles; food stalls appear in front of the church, L’Église Saint-Martin, and continue along Rue Lafayette, which leads to Place Pellissier, dominated by the Hôtel de Ville and the beautiful Fountaine de Quatre Dophins; intimate Place Favier, home to the marvelous Musée des Alpilles, primarily showcases artisans, whose stands stretch along rue Carnot to the ring road.
When it comes to vendors, it’s a challenge to play favorites, but here are five of my friendliest faves:
Veggies: In September, Fabien Dumont and his wife, Lauren, will celebrate the 15th anniversary of their organic farm in Saint-Rémy. They grow 60 types of fruits and veggies, specializing in heirloom and rare varieties. Find them on Wednesday by Le Marilyn restaurant, on Boulevard Marceau, and for Saturday’s small, produce-oriented market, in front of the chic clothing store Souleiado. Their flavorful produce is tops—confirmed by the acclaimed British cookbook author and restaurateur, Marcus Wareing, who featured the couple on his series, Simply Provence, whichaired on BBC, in May 2024.
Olives: Following in his grandparents’ footsteps, Pierre-Étienne continues the Tondu family olive business, which began in 1960. They don’t cultivate the olives themselves but buy from the growers in the south of France, including Mouriès and Maussane, two famous olive-growing villages near Saint-Rémy. They prepare 25 varieties of olives, ranging from plump, smooth, and green to dense, rippled, and black, at a facility in Vedène, near Avignon. On offer are olives flavored many ways—with lemon, curry, herbs de Provence, etc., as well as various tapenades. They set up their stand on Place Pellissier, in front of the city hall.
Lavender: Lavande is arguably the scent associated with Provence. Harvested in July, mounds of dried lavender bouquets are showcased at markets throughout the summer. All year, shops sell lavender products like soaps, oils, wands, and sprays—you name it. One of my favorites is the lavender-stuffed sachet, personalized with an embroidered initial, sold by Malinka Driss, across from the Maison de la Presse, on Boulevard Mirabeau. A regular seller in Saint-Rémy for two decades, Mme Driss sources the lavender from Sault, the lavender capital of Provence, and an artisan friend in Menton, on the Côte d’Azur, hand-sews the delicate packets. Just massage the lavender-filled bundle, and the scent will revive and soothe for years.
Tablecloths: Charismatic Anne Cassagne sets up her stand near the carousel on Place de la République. She sells fine linen tablecloths, napkins, and placemats, as well as colorful block print versions. The linen fabric comes from Poland, and the brightly printed cloth from India, but Anne and other artisans sew the pieces themselves. She’s been selling at the Saint-Rémy market for nearly three decades—since 1996. She told me, “Next year I’ll have my 30th anniversary.”
I replied, “But, Anne, how can that be, you’re barely 30 years old!”
Tossing her head back, her blond curls bouncing about her youthful face, she laughed and said, C’est très gentil,” so very nice. She certainly is, and so are her products.
Flowers: For a pretty bouquet of fresh fleurs, make tracks to Jordan Miralles, who, for a decade, has manned his flower stand, Lenny Fleurs, named for his son. In the flower business for 58 years, his family doesn’t cultivate the blooms themselves. Twice a week, they trek two hours east to the commercial flower market, Marché Aux Fleurs d’Hyères. On Tuesday, they stock up on blooms for the Wednesday Saint-Rémy market and the Thursday market in Orange, making a second buying trip on Friday for the weekend marchés. If it’s Saturday, you’ll find them in Arles and on Sunday, in Châteaurenard. In Saint-Rémy, Jordan’s stand is on the south side of L’Église Saint-Martin, opposite the Grand Café Riche, a lovely spot to grab a café crème and watch the world pass by.
Tip: If you are planning a visit to the popular Saint-Rémy market during the peak summer season, try to arrive as early as you can to snag a parking spot in the free lot, Parking Liberation. It’s vast but fills fast.
By Gayle Smith Padgett
Author of Passion for Provence: 22 Keys to La Belle Vie and The Birdwatcher’s Wife: A Quest across France for Birds and La Belle Vie. Her third book, tentatively titled Pleasures of Provence, is coming soon.
Belle Provence Travels 