Finding Your Festive Inner-Flâneur (in Saint Rémy)
by Gayle Smith Padgett
Bremond & Fils advent calender.
Ho, ho, ho, as the holiday season approaches, indulging your festive spirit in Provence comes easily. Here in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, strings of twinkly lights and Joyeuses Fêtes banners festoon the narrow lanes and picturesque squares in and around centre-ville. Also, businesses have hopped on board the merry bandwagon with artfully designed window displays, offering a full range of enticing gift ideas, maybe some for your own wish list. All in all, it’s a terrific time to take a wide-eyed wander ‘round this Provençal town in flâneur fashion.
The Château Sainte Croix Christmas Market
We were lucky enough to get in an early Christmas market in Carces – known as the Green Provence area – in the middle of November.
Our first time at the Château Sainte Croix market, we weren’t too sure what to expect. We love their wines, so we figured we’d pick something up even if the market was only a few stands.
Well, we had to park our car about half a mile away, because it turns out this Christmas market is one of the most popular around.
There were over 20 stands, with something for all ages. Pony rides for the kids, handcrafted jewelry and handbags for the ladies, and gourmet food for everybody – not to mention the surprise addition of a local brewery and live music.
We did indeed pick up a few bottles of our favorite, which is the sparkling Muscat wine (sounds a bit funky, but if you try it, you’ll be an instant convert I promise!).
My actual favorite thing about the Christmas market was the traditional Provençal dancing we got to witness. It always feels so special to have some of the local history right at our fingertips.
The Best Brunch Around: Lou Calen in Cotignac
We went for brunch at gorgeous Lou Calen and what a feast for the senses.
Our second brunch appearance at Lou Calen’s bistro (the hotel also has a gourmet restaurant Le Jardin Secret), was just as good as our first time around – if not better.
What really distinguishes the brunch is the quality of the products. My husband and I both agreed that it was rare to have everything taste so good – especially in a buffet style serving.
From the roasted ham with a caramelized sauce, to the tenderly cooked beef, and the sublime chicken and roasted potatoes, everything was excellent.
Sweet & savory brunch choices.
There’s almost too much choice to list here, but by far my favorite dish was the seared scallop that they brought directly to the table.
Our last visit was quite similar… beyond the food at the buffet, cheese case, and pastry selection, the chef whips up little dishes on the spot and sends them directly to the customers.
Probably not an option, but I could’ve gone for a whole buffet full of those tender scallops – very delicious!
I also loved how they changed up all the different selections – from savory to sweet.
For example, in the dessert section, besides the full range of croissants, waffles, homemade cookies, gourmet ice cream, and a millefeuille station (yes, it’s a thing!), they also had a frozen rose granita – which was totally great and altogether dangerous at the same time.
I limited myself to one glass, quite begrudgingly, because who knows where I would have found myself in Cotignac after brunch.
Dreamy Lou Calen in Cotignac.
My husband and I had a little debate about the price which comes in at €56 per person, half off for the kiddos. He thought it was a tad extensive, but I thought it was worth every cent – especially given the quality and variety of the brunch, and the excellent service. The staff speaks English, what an unexpected pleasure!
Sainte-Agnès: A Hidden Treasure in the Alpes-Maritimes
by J. Christina
Sainte-Agnès, France
Sainte-Agnès, France is a perched medieval village, 10 kilometers inland from Menton in the southeastern corner of the Cote d’Azur. This rocky outcrop gracefully dangles at an altitude of 800 meters above the sea. Since 1997, this medieval village has been classified as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. What’s more, this quaint village also boasts the title of highest coastal village in Europe.
Reaching Sainte-Agnès is an exhilarating feat, driving up the steeply winding, precarious mountain road, where at every turn, you are welcomed with incredible views of this Provençal hilltop village. Once you’ve mastered this twisting and winding road, reaching this jagged peak you’ll find this enchanting village offers tourists several atelier shops, arched pathways, and cobblestone streets beckoning to be explored. The village has a few terraced restaurants and vantage points, to enjoy the incredible view that spans east and west along the French Riviera coastline below and across the azure sea.
Aix’s Gourmet Marché
If you’re in Provence from Thursday, December 4th to Sunday, December 7th, don’t miss the Gourmet Wine-Maker’s Christmas market next to the tourist office in Aix-en-Provence – a real treat!
On place François Villon, the second edition of the market will feature the best of local wine production, for every budget, along with gourmet food – including cheese makers, pastries, and charcuterie. Don’t miss the chance to taste the best of local wines in this beautiful southern city.
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A brief final message to thank you for following this newsletter! I, Tuula, will take a break from writing here on the blog as I’m starting a French training program. More good things to com!
Wishing you and yours a very Merry Christmas, Joyeux Noel!
Belle Provence Travels 