Savvy St. Tropez
The fabled port of St. Tropez.
On what was to be our fourth trip to the most famous of all Provençal villages, I was determined to get our weekend visit to St. Tropez “right”.
Past trips had been memorable for all the wrong reasons… including one ill-timed winter outing where we were whipped-about by Mistral winds & doused by rain. A couple of overpriced cocktails, and a few fleeting glances at Gucci bags later, and we were back on the road.
And then there were our two summer visits, where we finally had a chance to bask in that glorious South of France sunshine…. along with what seemed like every other tourist on “the cote”. As any good resident will tell you, summertime is when St. Tropez comes alive – massive yachts, extravagant parties, and very, very high heels. Besides the spectacular people-watching (I can still see those pink platforms & barely there halter-tops), St. Tropez left me feeling a bit overwhelmed and underfed – with a small(ish) budget & sizable appetites, we had a difficult time finding our foodie niche.
This time, after a bit of research and a more realistic approach (there’s no Gucci’s in this girl’s future), we set out to experience more of the “charm” of this pretty town & less of its supersized glamour. Here are a few ideas for spending a savvy, budget-friendly day in St. Tropez.
Market Cooking: Poivrons-Mozzarella au Basilic
Foods of the sun: colorful peppers in Toulon.
It’s been said that one of the best things about living / visiting the South of France is the chance to experience the Provençal markets. Fresh, colorful, and always full of interesting locals, sometimes more colorful than the produce itself, markets serve as the heart / gathering point of many southern towns. Plus, they’re just so very pretty.
Fresh basil from the market.
I try to go to the markets as much as possible. Busy days being what they are, that’s not always easy, but on my lunch breaks I’m usually able to squeeze in a quick stroll among the stands. Even if I’m not “equipped” to make a big purchase, there’s something about seeing all the vivid colors that makes the day just a bit brighter – and gives me quite a lot of inspiration for cooking projects to come.
Escape to the Ile de Porquerolles
Boats along the coast of the island of Porquerolles.
Living abroad is a funny thing. At first it can all seem like a permanent vacation in which you’ve somehow managed to land the starring role in the docu-drama, I Live in France, Isn’t that Crazy?
Slowly, things start to take shape – you make friends, get a job, and can order macarons at the bakery with actual words and not a point-and-hope-for-the-best pantomime. In short, some of the total awesomeness of living in France fades as “real life” takes over.
Boat departing from the Presqu'ile de Giens (Hyères).
And then there’s the weekend. When it comes, the chance to escape to a nearby town, village, or region brings the feelings of wonder rushing back.
The Ile de Porquerolles is one such weekend escape which leaves a lasting impression on visitors, and from the looks of the tourist lines in the summer, we’re not the only awestruck travelers.
A South of France Picnic
Picnic spot near Sanary-sur-Mer.
Picnics are a great way to save money while traveling and also an easy way to enjoy “natural” Provence.
There are so many possible picnic spots that it’s hard to choose just one, but it seems that most folks in the South prefer to spread their blankets near the sea. Often a drive along the coast can provide a choice location, and there are several seaside sites in the Var that are quite popular.
Our standout picnic favorite is Sanary-sur-Mer (where these photos were taken), and other good bets include the Calanques (accessible on foot if you depart from Cassis) and the Ile de Porquerolles – a boat ride away from the town of Hyères.
